We learnt that landlords years ago before the famine, doubled the rent for farmers if they increased the size of the windows of the cottage or raised the height of the door. The people were quite short back then, but the doors were even lower to keep out cold breezes. The pre-famine farm which we visited today was run by Dan O'Hara and his wife with 7 children. Because he modified the window (merely an excuse to take over his land), he was evicted from his farm and would have starved if he did not board a ship bound for America. En route his wife and three children died. When he disembarked his remaining children were placed with three separate American families, and the heartbroken farmer sold matches so he could feed himself. He was illiterate and could not speak any English.
We were shown the process of cutting and drying bog (peat) for fuel. Bodies have been found buried in the bogs, perfectly preserved because there is no oxygen there.
Emigrants were submitted to medical examinations before departure, and then again on arrival in USA. If not fit prior to departure they were refused passage.
We saw St Patrick's Hill (Patrick was never really a saint), where he rolled his bell down the hill. An angel appeared, returned the bell to Patrick, and removed all of the snakes and toads from Ireland. Pilgrims regularly climb the hill barefoot to honour this story. (2.5 hour trek, see photo below)
During the famine years, soup kitchens began to appear run by volunteers, to feed the starving people. There was insufficient soup, so a large number of villagers walked barefoot and in rags 18 miles to another village to a second soup kitchen, only to discover that it was a rumour. Hundreds died on the way there, and hundreds more on the way back. (See last photo of memorial below)
It seems that the rich get richer, and the poor become poorer. In the past, exports were comprised of grains and children. Nowadays it is grains and dairy products, particularly casein with the Chinese market in mind.
If I had to summarise the main characteristics/beliefs of the Irish (past and present), these would include:
Pagan beliefs
Spirituality
Superstitious
Religious
Friendly
Humorous
Patriotic/anti-England
Rebellious
Angry
Proud
Brave
Resilient
Antagonistic
Famine/starvation
Emigration to the New World
Education is now compulsory for children until they reach age 16. Many are red-headed with fair skin.
Coffee break for Judy at Westport.
The rivers and bridges are very attractive. This one is in the centre of Westport.
A remembrance memorial for those who died on the famine trail.
The start of the barefoot climb to the top of St.Patricks mountain. A pilgrimage to the Saint see 25,000 people making the climb on the first Sunday of August each year.
The movie "The Fields" was made here, a picturesque area with creeks, rolling hills, a lake and wild rhododendrons everywhere. A magnificent sight.
With millimetres to spare, cars and buses battle for space on all these remote roads along the west coast.
Kylemore Abbey constructed by a rich landowner for his wife who died just a few years after it was completed. An outstanding example of Castles in this area. She bore 9 children, and then died in childbirth with her 10th.
This is Martin, local tour guide at the Coonemara Heritage Centre. We jumped on an enclosed trailer while Martin towed us by tractor up to the small cottage where Dan O'Hara, his wife and 7 small children were evicted for increasing the size of the door and windows. Here Martin is showing us how to dig up the peat bog which is used for fires and insulation in ceilings of their cottages. Slabs are laid out on the ground and left to dry. It took 1,000 years to create this bog/peat substance, and its extraction is now carefully monitored and managed by government.
Inside the cottage with photos of 4 USA Presidents he has entertained here. Under the photo is a hidden bottle of home distilled porceen. We tried this illegal brew and it tasted like kerosene and burnt all the way down. Good for colds and flu!!
A spinning wheel to make local wool and cotten.
Dan O'Hara's homestead, one living room, one bedroom plus a loft for his girls. When they leave the loft to marry and there is only one left, they refer to her as being left on the shelf !
A memorial to the families who walked and died on the famine trail. This represents a "coffin ship".
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